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a guide to tuning the 2.0 I4 for power

Forum Tuning a guide to tuning the 2.0 I4 for power

2010-02-28 14:45:59

one of the most asked questions anywhere is "how do i get more power from a 2.0?"

the answer is contained in this guide.

the first thing i should do is answer a few obvious questions.

1#F/i or N/a ?

turbo will always be the choice for maximum power.and in the long run it will be forced induction will always show better results than naturally aspirated,but will be more expensive initially.N/a works out dearer in the long run for less results.but with turbo its all or nothing

2# is it worth doing?

in N/a probably not really.the best you can hope to gain is to make your car more driveable. on for the basics and a big thank you to tuscanirider who wrote this article-i have modified it to be more suitable for our use

in the begining......with a blank canvas..........

1- Performance Air Intakes:

There are mainly two types to upgrade your air intake, both replacing the stock intake assembly (air box, filter, and intake tubing). One is Cold Air Intake (CAI), and the other is Short Ram Intake (SRI). The main feature of these systems is applying different kind of air filters to allow more air into the engine, which the engine reads and responds to by adding more fuel, which yields in more power output.

DO WHATEVER OPTION YOU LIKE AND FEEL SUITS YOU MOST, BUT PLEASE DON’T CHEAP ON THE NEW FILTER. There are cheap air filters/kits being sold (like on e-bay), these mostly have lower filtration quality. They either are very restrictive to air, hence give you no gain Or have very low filtration, letting more air in (without proper filtration) so you feel the gain soon, but risking to lose your engine sooner.

Cold Air Intake

This will be direct replacement to your existing air intake assembly, putting the air filter in wheel well, outside the engine bay. Because of this filter location with CAI, the filter being away from the high temperatures under the hood, it takes in more fresh air at lower temperatures (just the outside ambient temperature). Cold air has higher density and hence higher content of Oxygen for specific volumetric flow rate. The higher Oxygen content helps for better combustion and slightly more power output. Because of this, a CAI would net you slightly more power gain compared to SRI.

One negative thing about CAI’s which some members report is danger of hydrolocking the engine once water gets sucked into the engine if the car goes into deep water puddle. Although this is said to be like a one-in-million possibility, it might be important to some individuals based on their actual climate conditions, location, or preferences.

Recommended Brands: AEM/Injen/Fujita/K&N/SFR/performance coupe

Budget: £50 upwards

Gains: 4-7 bhp

Short Ram Intake

This will replace your air intake assembly, placing the new air fitler under the hood in the engine bay. Because of this filter location, intake air will be at higher temperatures, thus yield less gain compared to CAI, but eliminating the one-in-million risk of hydrolock. SRI’s still yield some extra gain compared to stock air intake setup.

Recommended Brand: Injen SRI

Budget: £40 upwards

Gains: 4-6 bhp

The Injen SRI is the most proven kit because of where it places the filter farther from the hot engine (although it is still in engine bay, netting only like 2-3hp less than a CAI). Other SRI like AEM/Fujita/ are not any competitors to Injen SRI thinking of their tag prices. If you don’t want Injen, get your self something at lower price and don’t pay for the other brand names. SeoulFulRacing (SFR) SRI kit might be reasonable for the price it is being sold at.

Last is to note that as some members would do, dropping a good cone filter on the stock air intake tube might give you some 1-2bhp (not to forget a nice sound note), but you can easily take it little further at a reasonable added cost to SRI (like the case with SFR) with another possible 1-2hp for eliminating the restrictive stock intake tube, so why not do it right.

In many cases intakes may be marked as "V6 Tiburon". All V6 performance intakes will be compatible with your coupe. One thing you may need to consider if it's 03-04/05-06/07-08 as the MAF location was shifted up or down the intake tube. And still, intakes marked for Tiburon 03-08 (V6 or 2.0) are applicable with little adjustments to make it fit.

2- Performance Exhuast System (CatBack):

The stock exhaust system is designed for low noise, scarifying some performance. Upgrading your catback exhaust will not only offer you a nice sporty looking rear end with that lovely sound , but more importantly it helps to free up exhaust gases flow which helps your engine breath easier. Your engine’s sucked in more air with your CAI/SRI, and you need to let it go without restriction (what comes in, goes out).

Budget: £300 upwards

Gains: 3-6bhp

Note that if by any chance you will be upgrading to forced induction in future, under-axel design (as in ARK & SFR,or motoria from pc) will be more fruitful. Single exit is reported as a better choice as well when compared to dual exhaust exit. For real high boost and power output you may also need to consider 3” piping for the exhaust (available with ARK & SFR).also note if you go too big this may actually LOSE you power.

Some vendors might mark as "V6 Tiburon". This is compatible with I4 Tib, one thing needed is to rotate mounting flange of the exhaust pipe, which you can do at any muffler shop to have it cut, rotatet, and re-weld.

3- Header:

Header will replace your exhaust manifold (that has a welded catalytic converter), and it helps your engine breathes even easier topping some extra horses to your power output. The design of header involves consideration of tubing diameter and tubing length. While placing the header you need to consider adding a catalytic converter (high flow cat) between header and catback exhaust to be along with any applicable emission laws. High flow catalytic converters are known to give almost same performance as a straight down pipe from header to catback-and several people have found their engine sounds better with cat fitted.i have found it better not to go for the highest flow cat though because the coupe needs a bit of back pressure.i got a 200 cel but if i got one now id get 400. Because Oxygen sensor bunge location on header is different from that on stock exhaust manifold, while placing your new header you will need some wiring extension for your Oxygen sensor to relocate it to the new bunge that comes on the header. also note you wont have a heat shield which will allow red hot air to float round engine bay-not good for sri-so consider buying some heat wrap or a vented bonnet

Headers are generally made of stainless steel in 4-2-1 or 4-1 depending on collector designs (how the 4 tubes from cylinder exhaust ports merge into the main 1 exhaust pipe). 4-2-1 header would give you more out put at low-mid rpm ranges where as the 4-1 yield higher output at mid-high rpm ranges.

Sometimes after placing new header, you may get CEL (check engine light), this is due to the higher flow of exhaust air and how it comes in touch with Oxygen sensor. You can play it safe with some header CEL eliminator (check ARK website), and you are done.also note alot of people dont like the sound headers make so require a resonator.obx seems to be the best budget brand

Recommended Brands: ARK, SFR, Megan Racing, OBX

Budget: £200 upwards

Gains: 5-10bhp

Note that if by any chance you will be upgrading to Turbo setup in future, header will be replaced by Turbo manifold and will not be of any use with turbo. So you’d better give it another thought before investing in header.

this represents the easiest things you can do.if you want to get more on

ok........if your still reading and hungry for more lets get more technical.........


1- Piggyback Air Fuel Controller / Fuel Tuner

We have seen how the extra power comes from burning more/efficiently of the air fuel mixture, the more air that you have added, and more fuel which the car is adding accordingly. But is that ratio by which the ECU adds fuel to the added air optimal? The vehicle’s ECU controls this fuel management process with preloaded programs stored from factory. This stored control program, almost like everything with your coupe, scarified some performance to ensure compatibility with emission laws and safety. But the compromise was much, and there are still safe margins to move within toward better performance, so we might like to adjust the air-fuel-ration (AFR or A/F) especially that we had altered some of the datas ourselves by altering the incoming air flow.

These devices are wired to your engine-ECU harness to intercept how the ECU reads the air flow measure signal coming into ECU from air sensor (MAP or MAF sensor). By adjusting the value of this signal, the device make the ECU see that car is getting more/less air, hence adding/trimming how much fuel is given by the injectors. Don’t worry, the wiring and installation doesn’t require a PHD in electronics, only regular skills are required for the installation (and small hands … damn that very narrow vacancy around our ECU). Detailed wiring diagrams, and full instillation instructions come with your device, or you can simply find it around in Engine Management section of NT.

NT Members Proven Fuel Tuning Piggyback Brands: Apexi’ NEO, PowerPerfect SMT-6, NGM Mafterburner.

Budget: £300

Gains: with a good fuel tune you may expect another 4-6bhp out of your existing setup. At the least, a good fuel tune if not adding power, it will help you utilize your it more effficently.

Wiring the fuel tuner is only half way to fuel tune. The other half is reading the actual AFR, and making the tune accordingly to get the best results. First recommendation would be to take your car (with the tuner installed) to a dyno shop and let them tune it for you.

Finally we should note that fuel tuning with piggybacks usually works for the high throttle opening (Wide Open Throttle) at which the ECU performs according to fixed stored AFR, this is called open loop tuning. In lower throttle opening (cursing) ECU runs in closed loop where it measures AFR from stock O2 compares to preset value adjust and corrects fuel signals instantaneously, for best fuel economy and emission conformity. Trying to change closed loop fuel management may not result in any change as our ECU learns and adapts to bring back AFR to its preset-measure-compare loop values. I have noticed that my car switch from closed loop to open loop at around %70 opening of throttle body.

2- LightWeight FlyWheel (Manual Transmission)

Some of the produced power will be consumed at the crackshaft to rotate the flywheel before reaching the road. Can we save some of this power and deliver it to the wheels? Yes, simply with a lightweight flywheel.

This modification will not produce any more power out of the engine when measured at the crankshaft. It only frees some power off the crankshaft and delivered this freed power to the wheels.

The car will tend to accelerate faster, and you would see that your rpm now climbs up faster (and drops faster when clutch is pressed). Who would not like feeling that faster acceleration?!

Recommended Brands: Fidanza, ClutchMasters, Valeo (from SFR)

Gains: 4-6hp to the wheels (remember no BHP increase)

Sometimes because of installation errors, manufacturing defect, or extreme weight reduction, the engine may feel odd at idle with some hesitation or chatter sound. Proper installation and choice of quality part will mostly show you only the bright side of having lightweight flywheel.

A last thing to point out about this mod is that mentioned gains of a lightweight flywheel are figures that you may see at a dyno run as increased peak power. But in reality you may experience feeling of much bigger effect at lower gears (especially 1st & 2nd) and much stronger launches, this is because of the nature of relation between engine components rotating mass-transmission gears-total vechicl's weight.

3- Performance Clutch Upgrade (Manual Transmission)

Many members complain about how the stock clutch slip at high loads, wears out fast ...etc, even with stock performance setups (personally I didn’t feel it when I was bone stock). How the stock clutch will act as you are increasing the engine power output? It will slip under mild or aggressive loading.

Aftermarket clutch kits are available to make sure that no power is lost in the transition, even for those parts of second when the clutch tends to slip. Perfromance clutch will not give you any power gains, but it will ensure to transmit the power instantaneously from your crankshaft to your transmission, without any slipping.

Aftermarket clutch kits are vailable in different stages depending on how much power you will be putting out of your engine.

Recommended Brands: ClutchMasters, South Bend, Fidanza, VHR

Budget: £200 up

Gains: no gain in terms of hp, but better launch and acceleration at gear shifts.

Once you put in your new aftermarket clutch kit with a manual transmission car, you may feel like learning the driving back again. Don’t worry, give it some time with easy driving, this is a required break-in period for your new clutch (like 500miles), and helps you to break-in your driving techniques to adapt with the new clutch.

Note that it is usually smart buy to do clutch+flywheel upgrades together. This may give you better deal with the seller, and absolutely save you some of the sweet greens if you will do the installation at a pro shop.

For Automatic Transmission cars, you don't need flywheel upgrade. The design of your "flywheel" (sometimes called flexplate) in automatic transmission is a lighter plate which is not there to smooth out power pulses from the engine like the flywheel does on a car with a manual transmission, the torque converter of auto tranny provides this function. As for the clutch, trust me you dont want to pay for the expense of messing with your "automatic clutch pack".

now your getting into the realms of spending away now if the wife hits with a brush or rolling pin.but if you still have more money than sense and have not yet realised you should have bought a v6,read on............

Stage 3

4- Lightweight Pulleys

The crankshaft is connected at one end to the wheels through drive train (flywheel-clutch-transmission), and we have seen how reducing flywheel weight at that end helps to free some power that could have been stored in the flywheel itself. At the other end of engine’s crankshaft the crank pulley is installed which is used to drive other belt driven components of your car such as alternator, water pump, steering pump, A/C. Because of this assembly, turning those pulley

2010-02-28 14:50:16

and their respective devices are considered as loads (parasitic drag) on the crankshaft drawing power from engine’s bhp output. In theory if we can reduce these loads to zero, we could have saved some of power which would add to the net power transferred to the wheels. These loads drawn at the crank pulley consist of two parts, one part is the actual power drawn at the auxiliary devices (water pump, alternator …etc), and the other part is power required just to get the pulleys mass rotating in first place. questionable whether any gains but........

As in the flywheel case, reducing the rotating mass of these pulleys by using lightweight pulleys will save you few more horses and let them run to the wheels. Weight reduction of pulleys is usually accomplished by replacing the stock pulleys with lighter ones made of Aluminum.

Recommended Brand: ARK Lightweight pulley Set (OEM size: crank, water, & steering)

Gains: “SET” adds 4-7hp to the wheels (remember no bhp increase)

Budget: £110 up

Because the crank pulley is the biggest among those, in some cases performance upgrade in this zone is done only with the crank pulley made of lighter weight and smaller in size. In this case the crank pulley is said to be Under Drive Pulley. Because of nature of power transmission by pulleys, when the driving pulley is reduced in size, the transferred amount of power is less, and the freed horses because of under driving find their way to the wheel. Note that when using under drive crank pulley, the required belt size is different from OEM belt size.

Recommended Brands: ARK, SFR

Gains: 4-5hp to the wheels (remember no bhp increase)

Budget: £80 up (under drive lightweight crank pulley only)

Because of physics at the pulleys, we note that major part of gains freed up at the pulleys come from less rotational mass (lighter weight). Therefore even in the case with under drive pulley, the smaller size serves more to gain out of more weight reduction (smaller = even lighter), and only the smaller part of that gain (2hp) is actually coming from under driving. Hence the maximum possible power gain of pulleys upgrade could be like 6-9whp with combination of a lightweight under drive crank and lightweight water and steering pump pulleys.

Finally we should mark that pulleys balance must be well taken care of, not to have any harmonic balance issues on engine idling or running (look for quality). Also under driving the auxiliaries influence their functions, hence under sizing of crank pulley if to be considered in your up grade, it must be limited to avoid issues at the auxiliaries. After all we don’t want those (alternator and the pumps) running any less efficient.

Like the case of weight reduction of flywheel, note that mentioned gains of a lightweight pulleys are figures that you may see at a dyno run as increased peak power. But in reality you may experience feeling of much bigger effect at lower gears and much stronger launches, this is because of the nature of relation between engine components rotating mass-transmission gears-total vechicle's weight.

5- Intake Manifold Phenolic Spacer

We have talked about how lower intake air temperature influences engine power output for better performance. But in real condition does a cold air intake really give “cold” air to the engine? Simple answer is NO. Because the air runs to the engine through throttle body and the intake manifold, which by turn is mounted to engine’s body. This causes the intake manifold to stay at higher temperature because of heat transferred by conduction from engine. If you open the hood after some 20 minutes driving and try to touch on your intake manifold, you will know what I mean. In real driving conditions intake manifold will be at some real high temperatures (could you touch it?), and this will heat up the air going into the engine.

Phenolic intake spacer is like thick gasket made of some heat insulating material simply mounted between intake manifold and engine intake side to help reducing intake manifold temperature. i really do question whether these are any good at all.some people swear by them others say they are useless

Recommended Brand: shark racing (Thickness 1/4")

Gains: 2-4bhp

Budget:£70 up

Installation is like piece of cake. Remove your intake manifold (8 bolts) and place the spacer in between, and tighten manifold back. Just remember that when installing the spacer to put gasket on both sides of the spacer

I don’t have a reference for actual intake manifold temperatures with the coupe before and after installing intake spacer spacer. But I know I couldn’t touch on the manifold before I did this mod (and I know I can touch surfaces up to like 70C /160F). And after I installed the spacer, now I can lay still my hand over the manifold for like… forever (I know I can’t hold it still on surface temperature beyond 50C /122F). Thus expecting like 20C drop of intake air temperatures because of the spacer. there is a funny post on new tiburon with a guy asking if he can put his "bear ass" on one

6- Throttle Body Coolant By-Pass

do we have to pay for everything to enhance performance of our cars? , how bad has the world gone, wish we could have anything for free. Well, smile, this one’s for you at no charge. In principle it is much the same as the intake manifold spacer, reducing throttle body temperature to help getting air into the engine at cooler temperature. although again,its benefits are more than questionable

But how come?! It says “coolant by-pass”, aren’t coolants expected to cool things? So how can we cool the throttle body in by-passing the coolant?! Well, don’t be cheated with names. There is a line of engine “coolant” (water in this case) that runs from the engine to the throttle body and back. These are connected at lower side of the throttle body. So, we all know how hot is this “coolant” after your car has run for 5 minutes? Yes, it’s damn hot. After running the engine for some 5 minutes, this hot “coolant” will start to heat up your throttle body, and by turn heating the air going through your throttle body. In by-passing the “coolant” we prevent this additional heating of intake air charge. Simply disconnect the hoses from throttle body and join them together with a U fitting (brass). More simply, disconnect the hoses from throttle body, disconnect one from the engine side, and plug the other one back to engine.

Recommended Brand: One-Self good hand made.

Gain: Let’s not argue. As long as it’s free, a 0.1bhp is fair enough, anything more is even better.

Budget: save your money, or spend them to treat a friend for a drink

Now many had put the following question: Was Hyundai stupid enough to put something that is not necessary? Well, no for sure, we are all driving good Hyundai makes. This “coolant” line is there to keep your throttle body hot enough (what a coolant?) in extreme cold weather to avoid chances of the butterfly stuck frozen. But in reality 1 guy lived -10C winters (15F) with this mod trouble free. May be if you live in the farthest part of Canadian lands or Scandinavia, you might need to double check before doing it, or do it summer time only.

Guess this free one is good point to conclude this part. But finally, since the throttle body is mounted to the intake manifold. I’d advise to do the last two mods together at once (IM spacer & TB coolant bypass), because doing one will keep the other part under the other heat source (engine coolant at throttle body or heat conduction at intake manifold).

2010-02-28 14:51:15

Stage 4

1- Port & Polished Intake Manifold

Think of the air going through your engine like electrical current in some wiring circuit, starting at the intake filter and ending at the exhaust tip. Along the way, the circuit has different resistances to air flow. In stage1 we have just eliminated the main restrictions to air flow by changing the major and more important parts to less restrictive ones . But is that all resistance that air charge faces? Fast answer is No. The basics were the major required changes to let your engine breath faster and easier, but there are still others to play with, and one of these is the intake manifold.

In this upgrade, the intake manifold ports mating the cylinders, and the intake port mating TB be machine for slightly larger sizes. Also the internal runners of the intake manifold will be chemically treated for smother surfaces, and in some cases the chemical treatment will etch little of the runners wall to even increase the cross sectional area of these runners. These changes combined will allow the air to flow more easily through the intake manifold to engine.

Gains: 2-4bhp

Earlier there was an aftermarket intake manifold for coupe (Air Ram IM), that used to completely replace the stock manifold and giving this advantage. But the Air Ram IM is not available in market anymore. also available are motoria ones from pc but i wouldnt reccomend due to the problems several people-including me-had fitting them.if you want one try and find a secondhand airram

2- Big Bore Throttle Body

With your aftermarket intake system, and the custom work you had in your port & polished intake manifold, the stock throttle body now with its stock bore size is a bottle neck for the intake air charge. And it is feasible now that if the throttle body bore is increased it will help further to decrease resistance to air flow. No matter how small the reduction in that resistance is. If you are after every horse out of your naturally aspirated engine, then with this you might be able to extract couple more of them.

Gains: 2-3bhp

Here it is good to point out that doing PPIM & BBTB together will be more fruitful to your desired gain. And if ever you would do only one of them don’t let it be the BBTB without porting your intake manifold.

3- Camshafts Upgrade

coupe is a DOHC (Double Over Head Cam), that it has two separate camshafts one as intake camshaft and the second is exhaust camshaft. Camshafts are linked to the crankshaft by the timing belt. As the engine’s crankshaft rotates, the camshafts are rotated controlling the opening and closing of intake and exhaust valves in the combustion cycle. The geometry of camshafts is the determining factor for how much the valves are opened (set by camshaft Lift), and how long these valves are kept open (set by camshaft duration). The following page has a nice illustration on How Camshafts Work.

Aftermarket performance camshafts for naturally aspirated engines usually has higher camshaft lifts (open the valves more), and longer duration (open the valves longer). Higher lift usually increases engine’s torque over the entire rpm range. Where longer duration usually increases engine’s peak power at certain rpm range depending on actual profile of the camshaft. But whenever you are upgrading your camshaft(s), you have to consider how much increase it is offering for the lift and duration. Very high lift may cause the cam lobes to hit on the valves leading to great damage. Also very long duration usually ends in very rough idling and you might be left with your car too annoying for a regular street driving.

Performance camshaft upgrade is available in two options. The first is buying a new specially machined set of camshafts. Usually these are available from Korea with upper-mild to aggressive profiles (sometimes referred to as HiCams). And to run these you will require your ECU to be reprogrammed according to the specifications of these new camshafts. This ECU reprogramming is necessary for the engine to run properly with these aftermarket camshafts, and to truly extract the potential of this upgrade (ECU Reflash is discussed next).

Gains: 10-20bhp (with ECU Reflash)

The second option to upgrade your camshaft is by sending it for custom regrinding work. The vendor will re-machine your stock cams changing the camshaft profile to a preferred/requested set of specifications. Note that with this method you will need to uninstall your camshaft(s) and send it for vendors for the process, then get it back and install it. Note that an ECU reprogramming is still highly recommended with performance camshaft(s) to uncover the extra gains.

Gains: 7-10bhp (with ECU Reflash)

One thing to point out about camshaft regrind works is that in some cases members who did this modification reported failure/breaking of the camshaft. So if you will be in that way, beware about this and where you are doing the regrind job

4- ECU Reflash (Remap)

Stock ECU (Emission Control Unit) like everything with our Hyundais was set for most conformity to applicable emission laws, and to leave a quite margin for engine safety. But when we think of performance upgrades we might consider scarifying some of those to a limit. The Stock ECU can be reprogrammed by professionals to change to closed loop and open loop set air fuel ratios, ignition timing, rpm limiter, speed limiter with other things that I might not be aware of. These all when done properly with your existing setup in mind can yield you extra few horses to the wheels when you drive it hard. It might also enhance your fuel economy if you are just a regular day driver.

Unfortunately our ECU is not a public-user-friendly, and it to reprogram it certain hardware/software interface utilities are required, which are only available at professional turners. Lucky enough if you are close to tuner’s location so you can drive your coupe to their shop and have it tuned in-house for the most perfect tune matching exactly your setup and engine conditions. But this is only possible to very few of us.very few people in the uk can do this. In general it is a long distance job where the tuner does the reflash and send the ECU for you to plug it on. In this general case the tuner will load a certain program that is closest to your tune requirements, based on lot of information he must collect from you about your engine and modifications done so far. Its unfair to expect a perfect tune in this general case. Every car is different, a simple example is that X exhaust is not like Y exhaust and these two are different when installed on driver1’s car or driver2’s car. Despite this unfortunate disadvantage of ECU reflashing, a relfash would always be good for your car because of many things other than just tuning air fuel ratio like said above. A fuel tuner might help you to “fine tune” your car to your actual conditions after the reflash. have a look at hyundai house of power-tc has done a uk ecu re-write but unfortunately it has to do away with your immobilser

Gains: 5-15bhp (based on your other mod setup)

Unfortunately, if you do any new mod after your ECU relfash, your valuable tune is gone in vain, you will need a new ECU reflash because you have changed the specifications to which ECU reflash parameters was set. For this reason, also thinking of its cost, ECU reflash should be on the last line of your modding list.

ECU reflash can enhance your cars performance even on its own. Reflashing ECU on bone stock car might give you 3-5hp gain and since you are soft driver (you haven’t done any mod, you see) it will enhance your fuel economy for sure (be fair, don’t expect +%50 MPG)


i dont think you'll see might be looking at 180-190bhp if your very lucky and done everything.when you balance this on people with turbo's you could have been looking at 220bhp,and on a v6 probably the same or better.

there are lots of independant engine experts out there such as sharky at birmingham who can help and give advice.


#do mods one at a time.if summat goes wrong you dont wreck your car you know what you did!

#always reset ecu after any mod.take battery lead off for at least a minute and pump brake pedal a few times-allow at least 150 miles to reset to new values.

#dont bodge it.if you cant do it get help

What will happen with my N/A mods if I go to forced induction?

Luckily most of the upgrades you would do in N/A will be good as well with any future forced induction plans:

  • Performance Intake (CAI/SRI): the filter you can use.. not bad huh?!
  • Header: will go out and be replaced with turbo manifold... this is bad

(if the promised enforcer ever comes, both intake and header are great to have )

  • CatBack Exhaust: Big must for forced induction ... good
  • Fuel Tuner: applies ...
  • Lightweight Flywheel: applies, who wouldn't like faster rev up, turbo or not
  • Clutch: OEM can not take the turbo power.. good
  • Lightweight Pulleys : Apply ...
  • IM phenolic spacer: good N/A & F/I ...
  • P&P IM: good for turbo ...
  • BBTB: good for turbo ...
  • Camshaft: Turbo cam profiles are different in general (turbo doesn't like too much overlap) ...
  • ECU Reflash: you may need new ECU reflash if you put turbo ...

Finally Remember These:

  • Lowering springs/coilovers will help your car handle and corner better and will make your 2.0Tiburon looks more sexy for sure (Recommended H&R, ARK, Eibach, Tien)
  • If you are close to the top end of N/A power, especially when you do the flywheel and clutch upgrade, you will start to notice that your front wheels tends to jump (wheel hop) if you want to launce it hard. Replacing your front/rear engine mounts will help to eliminate this. Say bye bye to wheel hop with Polyurethane Motor Mounts (Recommended Brand Yaya from SFR). Or you can Modify it your self with a good DIY (check DIY section) or engine damper will help
  • For N/A discussed, you dont need bigger injectors or bigger fuel pump. OE Pump&injectors are good for 200BHP.